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Making a Fully Fashioned Underwired Bra Slip

By Di, Jan 16 2020 02:47PM

I've been writing a series of short articles for Sew Today magazine about hacking their patterns. I don't know who popularised the term, but to me it means doing something illegal or cutting into something in a rough manner .... I like to think adapting patterns is done with thought and care....

For a long time I'd wanted a bra slip with underwired cups. They used to be a thing in the shops when I was a teenager, but I guess the wide range of cup sizes needed makes them an unviable thing to stock.

I've used Vogue 9218

with the bra from Simplicity 8229

To make a wearable toile I bought some very cheap stretch lace fabric with scalloped edges to see if my idea was going to work.

Having made bras before my only concern was achieving a good fit. The instructions for choosing the size were easy to follow and advise buying underwires in different sizes to help find the right ones. I lined the cups with Duoplex to give more support; it encased the seams and is soft so there's nothing to irritate soft breast tissue. I underlined the back band with a strong power net for added support and treated it as a single layer.

The lace edge was appliquéd to the top of the cups with zig zag. I used hooks so the straps can be worn as a halter neck or crossed at the back and I also strengthened where the straps attach to the back by extending them into the lower elastic as well as the top. For larger cup sizes this area takes a lot of strain and a bra pattern where the straps extend round to the hook and eye fastening will be stronger and more supportive.

I stitched the front and back skirt together and appliquéd the scalloped edge to the bottom, leaving the top edge unfinished. Using my ironing board I positioned the bra and skirt together and then attached the elastic to the bottom of the bra.

This is a wearable toile so I used some lace I already had that doesn't stretch to stabilise the top edge. I pinned one motif at the centre front then worked round to the back in both directions and pinned it to my ironing board, to help pattern match the lace accurately at the seam. Finally I zig zag stitched the lace to the main fabric.

I'll wear it a few more times to check the fit before making in charmeuse and lace. As this article was commissioned I was gifted the patterns from Sew Direct, however you could use any bra pattern that fits you.

Jan 18 2020 10:55AM by Patrice Cunningham

Beautiful slip. Thank you for your detailed explanation and all of your wonderful posts. Is there a way to subscribe to your blog? I’d love to follow you.

Jan 18 2020 11:06AM by Di

Hi Patricia. Thanks for your lovely comments. I don’t have a subscription to my blog, perhaps it’s something I need to investigate. I do use Bloglovin to advertise my new posts. So if you joined that and follow Diane Kendall you’ll get notifications

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